Archive for the ‘Painting’ Category

The Devil made me do it.

Guess what series I’ve finally gotten around to watching?

I recently bought myself a really good Daredevil Heroclix, to use in an inspired, fun little squad I’ve thought of, but the model was a horrible bright red. Yeah, I know, I know, “That’s how he’s supposed to look!”. I just prefer the modern, armoured Man Without Fear from the current series, ok? If I was going to be hiding in shadows and dodging bullets I probably wouldn’t vote for bright red Lycra either, and trust me, I know a bit about wearing it.

I started out trying to replicate the crimson/black pattern that The Devil of Hell’s Kitchen wears, but soon discovered that the cool action pose, whilst making him look awesome, doesn’t lend itself to the exact style of it; Parts that are solid metal would need to be bending. Instead, I simply went with something “in the style of” the series. Pretty pleased with it. Even if I did go in blind (Sorry).

As a side note, this era of Heroclix (around “Incredible Hulk”) used a horrible shiny paint that is almost impossible to adhere other paint to. He currently has three layers of maroon on him, and it rubs off super easily, so he’s going to have to have a nice coat of varnish to hold him together. I don’t want him shiny, so I’ll probably go for a Matte (Murdock) (Sorry again).

Ömer Ibrahim is a regular contributor to Suppressing Fire and you can check out his modelling work at Can’t Sleep, Must Paint.


Ömer Ibrahim – Suppressing Fire’s painter and modeller extraordinaire- has tasked himself with a new project: fitting a full lighting rig to Fantasy Flight Games’ Outrider model for their astonishingly popular wargame, X-Wing. Let’s see how he gets on:

You can follow Ömer on Twitter at @TheIronTurkOmer and follow his painting/modelling blog at: 

Wave 2 of Star Wars – Imperial Assault dropped recently, so here’s a quick and dirty guide to getting your minis looking good with a minimum of fuss.

R2-D2 & C-3PO Ally Pack

Available Now – £9.99


R2-D2 is a little bit fiddly, but he only has a limited colour palette, so it’s hard to go too wrong.  Base with a white undercoat, and then treat to a good coating of Nuln Oil.  This’ll get him grimy and dirty in all the gaps, corners and crevices.  Then, dry brush with white, so that the surface areas look “clean” again, while still retaining the dirt and grime of the Nuln Oil in all the cracks and crevices.  Paint the dome in a light silver/grey, and add the blue detailing, referring to the films or production/promotional photos as a guide.  Finally, a small amount of ‘Ardcoat on the lens.


Threepio may look complex, but he’s very easy to do.  For the base colours, undercoat white, then paint the majority of the body gold (choosing the right sort of gold is important – I went for Citadel Auric Armour Gold), his waist/exposed components with Mechanicus Grey, and his right leg in a light grey/silver.  Give a light wash of Nuln Oil, and pick out the details of the eyes and waist components.

Kayn Somos Villain Pack

Available Now – £7.99


Stormtroopers are exceptionally hard to paint and to get looking exactly right, so I’ll be doing a more detailed tutorial on this very soon.  For now, colour all the gaps in the armour Mechanicus Grey, then Nuln Oil, then drybrush back to white – exactly the same as you did with R2-D2.  Highlight all the detailing on the armour – expecially the helmet – in black, as well as the gun and the edge of the shoulder pauldron.  Drybrush with a metalic silver to bring out the highlights.  Then, add the orange to the Pauldron.

Boba Fett Villain Pack

Available Now – £7.99


Boba Fett is in a rather awkward pose, which makes him something of a faff to paint properly.  After undercoating white, I started by doing the overalls/bodysuit/baby-gro in a powder blue/grey colour, followed by the body armour in a dark green.  The pouches and arm-bands followed in a mix of dark red/dark grey, and then the knee and shoulder pads in a vibrant yellow.  The helmet was done last, following production photos as a guide.  I went for a gloss black for the visor, but the model seems to have it recessed a little more than it is in the movie version, so you could get away with a normal black/dark grey if you prefer.  Light battle damage was added to the amour and helmet using Runefang Silver.  Be careful when doing battle damage, as it’s very easy to end up doing too much and having it look too battered.  Finally, wash with Agrax Earthshade to bring out the shadows, detail and to dirty-up the figure.

For bases, I’ve gone for a solid black, as I find this the most versatile – and games of Star Wars: Imperial Assault are take place over a variety of different locations.  If you want to do something more fancy, that’s totally up to you.

I’m keen to cover some more fantasy and sci-fi stuff in Suppressing Fire, so when this little chap arrived in the post:


I decided to set myself a little challenge, and see if I could get him painted up to gaming table standard in a single evening.  From opening the blister, to the finished item took me four and a half-hours.  So here’s how I did it:

The box for this Han Solo Ally Pack for Star Wars: Imperial Assault contains the figure (which’ll replace the rather lacklustre “pog” in the main game) as well as another – yet, oddly identical – deployment card for use in both the campaign and skirmish modes.  Seems weird to just reprint the same card, when a subtle variation would have been nice.  There’s also a rulesheet and cards for a new Campaign mission centred around Han, as well as two Skirmish missions, set around gambling gone bad in a seedy Cantina.  You also get a reward card for the campaign (Han’s quick-draw holster), and six original Command cards for use in Skirmishes.


So, here’s everyone’s favourite Corellian straight out of the box.  The first thing to do is to run a file round and clear up the mould lines.  These aren’t too bad.  There’s a slightly difficult one on the right ear, but otherwise they came off fairly easily.  After that, it’s a quick scrub in water and washing up liquid, dry off on kitchen towel, and then spray undercoat.  For this I used Citadel Skull White, mostly through force of habit, because it’s what I’ve always used.  I generally don’t like using a black undercoat, as my eyes struggle with the detail when it’s too dark.  If you’d prefer to undercoat black, go for it.

After that, Han looks like this:

IMG_2655[1]The scrub in the sink and the white undercoat really helps to bring the detail out when painting, and also helps the paint to adhere to the model easier.  After this, the first things I painted were the skin tones (Citadel Kislev Flesh) and the hair (Balor Brown):


The skin tone’s brought out the facial features nicely. The hair is a little more Dash-Rendar-Red than Han-Solo-Brown at the moment, but that’s because the ink wash at the end will darken it significantly.

Next, I used a generic Revell blue for the trousers, and a Revell light-grey/off-white for the shirt.  I don’t generally like painting pure white or pure black unless I have to, as it’s very easy to lose detail.  A grubby grey is good for a Corellian smuggler anyway.  Again, the trousers are a lot brighter than Han’s are in the movies, but I want to go bright, because the ink-wash at the end will make everything a lot darker.


The next steps were the body-warmer/jacket, for which I used Citadel Mechanicus Grey (again, a little lighter than the movie, but the ink wash will darken this), and Citadel Rhinox Hide on the holster and belt.

IMG_2664[1]Next, I did the boots, and the DL-44 blaster in straight Revell Black, but you could use any brand black.  Black is black is black.

As I said earlier, I don’t like painting pure black unless I have to, but here I’ll be highlighting the blaster with some chrome later and…well…there’s no getting away from the fact the boots are simply black:


Now, he’s starting to look like Han Solo!  I decided to add a little detail, as while he looks okay at the moment, it’s the detail that really allows a figure to “pop” and look good.  And detailing is rarely as hard as you think it’s going to be. For the detailing here, I picked out the buckles and ammo pouches on the belt in Citadel Runefang Silver, drybrushed the blaster with Citadel Leadbelcher, and added a Corellian Bloodstripe down the trousers in Revell Red.

Drybrushing is a really simple technique to get some great highlighting results, and you should be able to easily find a tutorial online if you’re not already sure how to do it.

Once the detailing work was done, he looks liked this:


The good news is that we’re nearly there.  Now, for the ink wash I use Citadel Agrax Earthshade, and I use it liberally.  You want to get the ink into the crevices and shaded areas, which will highlight a lot of the detail on the figure.  After applying the Agrax Earthshade, my Han looked like this:

(Before and After Agrax Earthshade Ink Wash)

                            (Before and After Agrax Earthshade Ink Wash)

As you can see, the Agrax really gives the figure depth and detail with a minimum of effort.  After this dried, I added a second ink wash to the trousers and the blaster, but this time using a black ink (Citadel Nuln Oil).  This darkened the trousers even closer to the film version, and also prevented the blaster from looking too “shiny”.  We want Wars and not Trek!

Finally, I did a solid black base.  I prefer to just use solid black for Imperial Assault, but you can do whatever you like.  It really is personal taste.


So there, it is, from blister to a game standard paint job in 4.5 hours, including drying time.  Let me know if you’d be interested in seeing me do any of the other figures as well.